The Testpiece Podcast

After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.
In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.

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Is V17 or 5.15d harder?
Is Duality Of Man chipped?
Will Sean ever compete again?
Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.
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The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds
How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?
What makes a benchmark a benchmark?
Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode
The thing people don’t realize about climbing content

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One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
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Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
When to consider surgery

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits
The history and future of rubber technology for shoes

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Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit
The look of the Decoy Board
The pros and cons of every training board
Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors

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