Chemist Confessions

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag.

 

00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review

12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol?

25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study

29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing

34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives

38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0

41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

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In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths behind product categories like toners and essences, and why classic ingredients like snail mucin continue to hold up under scientific scrutiny. From the manufacturing hurdles of hot-pour cleansing balms to navigating US sunscreen filter regulations, we unpack what it takes to formulate effective products amidst viral TikTok trends.

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #sokoglam  @sokoglam  #skincarescience

#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!

 

In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide

• Dr. Reju-All Official Amazon Store: https://amzn.to/4gfUXI1.
• Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream: https://amzn.to/4gdo4LT.
• Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum: https://amzn.to/4gAJmo6. #drrejuvall #ad #pdrnserum

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy.

Timestamps

00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy

03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review

06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum

15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum

19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides

21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions

23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum

26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy

31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine

 

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #

🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype?

 

In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famous 500 Dalton Rule to reveal how much of your product actually penetrates the skin barrier. And most importantly... all the theories and in vitro studies aside, what do the clinical studies REALLY say?

 

YouTube Timestamps

00:00 | Biological Role of Copper Peptides

02:55 | The Four Categories of Skincare Peptides

04:18 | What is the 500 Dalton Rule? (Skin Permeation Guidelines)

08:32 | GHK-Cu Molecular Weight & Permeability Limitations

18:41 | Copper Peptide better than Tretinoin? What the clinical data ACTUALLY say)

25:20 | Animal Fun Fact! Copper peptides in the animal kingdom

30:58 | Can you use copper peptide with vitamin C? Active Ingredient Incompatibilities & Layering Guidelines

 

🔗 Resources & Links Animal fun fact study for the curious: https://www.livescience.com/bloodworms-fangs-origins

Blank Slate Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser (add to cart and get the mini for free with code MINIME)

Our Sunscreen Database! https://www.chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

 

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns!

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge