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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric J. Hörst
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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  • #121 - Connective Tissue Training for Strength, Resilience, and Performance
    Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren't enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly depends just as much on the health of connective tissues—tendons, ligaments, and the extracellular matrix (ECM)—as on muscle strength itself. Yet, these vital tissues have long been misunderstood as relatively static and untrainable. The latest research proves otherwise: tendons and ligaments are remarkably adaptive, capable of remodeling and strengthening in response to targeted loading and proper nutrition. The white paper presented in this podcast distills more than a decade of cutting-edge research into a clear, evidence-based framework for improving connective tissue health and performance. Drawing on the work of leading scientists and sports medicine experts, it explains how short bouts of specific mechanical loading—paired with precise nutritional strategies—stimulate collagen synthesis, enhance tendon stiffness, and accelerate recovery. The paper also details the biological mechanisms behind these adaptations, offering a practical roadmap for both elite and dedicated recreational climbers. Whether you're looking to climb harder, rehab a connective tissue injury, or simply increase your resilience so as to stay injury-free longer, this research-driven guide provides the tools to do it. Listeners (and readers) will learn how to structure brief daily tendon-training sessions, time nutrient intake to maximize collagen synthesis, and avoid common anti-adaptive mistakes that slow recovery. Backed by peer-reviewed science and real-world application, this paper redefines how athletes can train smarter—and perform stronger—through the science of connective tissue optimization. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Eric's welcome statement 0:30 - Overview of this podcast and the research White Paper. Download a PDF with supporting diagrams and research references here >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsors: La Sportiva | DMM | Friction Labs | PhysiVantage -- Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - White Paper Introduction 8:40 - Tendon and Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Structure 14:23 - Connective Tissue Adaptations to Training 22:54 - Tendinopathy and Its Progression 32:45 - Training Interventions to Rehab Tendons and Increase Performance 40:55 - Nutritional Support for Rehab and Strengthening Tendons 45:35 - Summary Points and Training Tips 51:45 - Concluding thoughts 54:00 - Eric's closing comments and contact information Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com PhysiVantage is available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop and in Mexico from PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy
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  • #120 - Conquer the Pump! Training and Tactics to Climb Your Best at the Red River Gorge (and elsewhere)
    If you're a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We've assembled a "Red River Pump" roundtable that reveals the training methods, tactics, and insider strategies for climbing your best on the overhanging walls of the Red — or any steep sport crag you love. Kris Hampton, Ryan Devlin, and Eric Hörst dive into Red-specific pre-trip and offseason training, mental strategies for embracing the pump, steep redpoint tactics, on-route resting, fueling and recovery, and how to "protect the send." This is a power-packed, actionable conversation you can apply today to climb stronger, last longer, and send harder on any endurance-style route. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast 1:05 - Overview of the training and tactical topics covered in this episode. Listen to the full two-hour conversation of ALL things RRG at The Struggle Podcast >> 🎧 Podcast Sponsor: Amplify your training and climb your best with PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers. Save 15% off full-price nutrition at PhysiVantage.com with checkout code: PODCAST15 4:20 - Introducing the Red River Pump Roundtable! 4:45 - [KH] General training prep in the weeks ahead of a trip to the RRG. 8:32 - [EH] The secret(s) to dominating on steep, pumpy routes. 10:30 - The importance of becoming a more aerobic-powered climber. 17:40 - [EH] Energy system training and the short- and long-term adaptations to climbing-specific aerobic training. And learn why doing a moderate amount of running can support your route-climbing performance. 21:30 - Learning to climb through the pump 25:10 - [KH] Tips for easing into an extended trip to the Red. 28:30 - [EH] Tactical tips for performing your best. 32:20 - [RD] Nutritional support of climbing performance and recovery between days of climbing. 34:00 - [EH] The benefits of SENDURE-X, a climber's pre-workout/performance drink that boosts circulation, endurance, and recovery ability. 36:08 - [RD] The value of the "low point" projecting tactic. 37:45 - [KH] "Protecting the send" 39:20 - [EH] Over-learning (practicing) the "anchor run" 41:00 - [RD] Low pointing defined. 42:10 - Final comments, and where to find more free training information. 43:00 - Wrap-Up and request  to PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW! Pease share this podcast on your socials and/or with your friends! 🎧 Support Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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  • #119 - 5 Powerful Lessons from Emily Harrington's "Girl Climber" Movie
    Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching Girl Climber -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harrington's incredible, multi-year journey to free-climb El Capitan's Golden Gate route in under 24 hours. For me, this isn't just a film about climbing—it's about resilience, will power, and the triumph of human spirit, Furthermore, it serves as a bold reminder of what it takes to stay committed to a dream in the face of fear, doubt, setbacks, and even failure. As Emily's journey shows, greatness isn't built on talent alone. It comes from disciplined training, uncommon courage and toughness, and the willingness to keep showing up for a goal that feels just out of reach. I had the chance to see Girl Climber on its IMAX theatrical release date, August 24th, and I'll tell you—it was excellent! Truly a must-see for anyone passionate about climbing…or simply fascinated by what it takes to push the human mind and body to their limits in pursuit of a big goal. Podcast Rundown 0:15 – Intro to T4C podcast and my initial thoughts on the Girl Climber film 1:30 - If you missed it in IMAX theaters, don't worry. The film is now playing on the Indy Movie Theater network, with larger chain theaters scheduled to pick it up in the coming months. And starting this October, Girl Climber will be available online as a paid download from jolt.films.  Watch trailer >> 2:00 - Intro to the 5 powerful lessons on display in Girl Climber. 2:35 - Emily's backstory and diverse climbing accomplishments 4:35 - 5 powerful lessons for pursing audacious goals 7:00 - Definition of "BHAG" (big hairy audacious goals), as popularized by Jim Collins 9:00 - Lesson #1: Commit for the Long Haul 11:45 - Lesson #2: Embrace the Bruising Process 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 17:20 - Lesson #3 - Persevere Through Adversity 19:15 - Lesson #4 - Build a Strong Support Team 22:07 - Lesson #5 - Believe in the Endgame 23:45 - Importance of surrounding yourself with "doers" (and avoiding critics and shit talkers) 25:40 - Final comments...PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 27:24 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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  • #118 - Wes Schweitzer - Training to Boulder V10 (Pro Football Player Turned Climber!)
    After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, slopers, and steep boulders! In this inspiring conversation, Wes shares how climbing started as elbow rehab modality, turned into a passion, and even improved his football performance. We dive into the parallels between elite football and high-level climbing, his challenges with a variety of football-related injuries, and his bold goal: to become the heaviest climber ever to send V10. Along the way, Wes reflects on career highlights—Super Bowl appearances, facing Aaron Donald, blocking for Matt Ryan and Aaron Rodgers—and his next chapter chasing higher Kilter Board grades and new outdoor climbing adventures. Podcast Rundown 2:28 – Welcome to Wes...the first American Football player to appear on the T4C podcast 3:45 - His first Autumn without football will be filled with climbing. 7:35 - How he discovered climbing...amidst a life filled with football 9:30 - Similarities between football and climbing 11:30 - Projecting "The Belly", a V5 at Catoctin Mountain Park 13:30 - What it's like (and what it takes) to play Offensive Line in the NFL 17:15 - How Wes dovetailed training for climbing while being starting Lineman in the NFL 20:40 - The physiological "balance" that climber offers a football player 21:30 - Insight into Wes' many football injuries 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: PhysiVantage Nutrition's Premium Proteins Boost your strength gains, recovery, connective tissue health, and immune system with PhysiVantage proteins: Supercharged Collagen, Weapons-Grade Whey Complex, and plant-based Powerplex. Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 24:50 - Looking ahead to Wes' next career as a pro climber! 25:50 - Wes' short-term climbing goals...and Kilter Board focus 28:30 - Discussion of body weight and climbing...and how much weight Wes has lost...and plans to lose in the coming years 33:18 - Wes' long-term climbing goals: Becoming the heaviest person to boulder V10...and climb a big wall 36:10 - Rapid fire Q & A about his experiences as a 9-year NFL player Favorite moment Endzone spiking Best QB he's played with Best athlete he's ever seen Who's the all-time GOAT in football Wes' insider pick for winning the Super Bowl in the 2025 season 42:15 - Wes' upcoming trip to the Red River Gorge 43:30 Wrap-up on Wes' inspiring journey from the football field to the climbing walls 44:00 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends!  45:35 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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  • #117: Manage Fear Like A Pro - 18 Tips for Winning the Climbing Head Games!
    Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel torturous—and even paralyzing. To climb efficiently and confidently—and to pursue your peak performance—you must learn to assess and manage fear effectively. In this 90-minute episode, Coach Hörst delivers a tour de force of 18 fear management techniques designed to help you unlock a new level of mental mastery. These practical strategies will empower you to perform at your best on boulders, at the crag, and in everyday life. (Because effective fear management is just as vital for achieving great things off the rock as it is on it!) Podcast Rundown 0:25 – Introduction to the topic of fear management for climbers 3:25 – The 5 most common types of fear in climbing 4:10 – Reflection break: Pause the podcast and consider some of your recent climbing fears. Can you identify a few that were especially acute or held you back? Write them down, and take notes as you learn techniques for managing these fears. 5:50 – FEAR #1: Fear of Falling Learn 4 powerful techniques for handling falling-related fear 36:00 – FEAR #2: Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt Discover 6 essential methods for using this fear productively—and quashing it when it's unfounded 🎧 Podcast Sponsor Product: SENDURE-X: The Ultimate Pre-Workout and Performance drink mix for climbers! Boost your power-endurance, stamina, and recovery between hard boulders, redpoint goes, and hard training efforts. Add a scope to your water bottle...and feel the difference SENDURE-X makes! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 1:03:40 – FEAR #3: Fear of Failure Ironically, fear of failure often results in failure itself. Learn 3 strategies to overcome it 1:11:28 – FEAR #4: Fear of Embarrassment and Criticism Explore 2 key strategies for dealing with these potentially debilitating fears 1:17:50 – FEAR #5: Fear of the Unknown Master 3 strategies for managing the intangible fear of uncertainty 1:27:37 – Recap of 11 powerful tips to assess and manage common climbing fears 1:33:07 - Critical take-home point: Love climbing unconditionally! 1:33:23 - Final comments...and mention of Eric's book Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience. 1:35:00 - PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW...and share this podcast with your friends! 1:36:18 - Hörst Out! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price performance nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
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Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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