Written in Stone: Climbing History

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Bouldering began as a way to train for the mountains, but by the mid 1940s in Fontainebleau, it had started to form it's own identity. A Bleausard named Fred Bernick had an idea that would continue the tradition of preparing for those mountain routes: Circuits. He laid out the first two, and inspired by a piece of Fontainebleau history from the late 1800s, he marked them with painted arrows.

They were instantly popular. 80 years later, there are over 370 of Bernick's circuits.

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Support the restoration of Fontainebleau: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/sauvons-la-foret-de-fontainebleau-/105641

Music:

"Sneaky Snitch" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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"Cello Concerto No. 1 in C Major, Hob. VIIb:1" Aspen Symphony Orchestra
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"écoutez ça" Alix Combelle
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"Fariboles" Alix Combelle
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"Rue Deperre" Alix Combelle
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"L'horloge du grand-père" Alix Combelle
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 License
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WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE

Perhaps the most powerful force in the early years of Fontainebleau bouldering history was the consistent changing of the guard. Every few years a new group would supplant the old, bringing new ideas, updated ethics, and stronger fingers. But when a brash group of climbers, formed from the best of several groups, the difficulty standards of the previous leaders, Pierre Allain's Convicts of Cuvier, were left in the dust. 

Led by Robert Paragot, a young climber who often wore only his PA's and his underwear and climbed while smoking a cigarette, this new group would do battle for several major projects, resulting in the world's first V6 (7A) boulder, The Joker. 

And just as suddenly as they'd shown up, they'd disappear from Cuvier. 

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Watch Paragot par Paragot: https://vimeo.com/465783740

 

Music:

"Blue Eyed Baby" Alix Combelle
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"Elle et Li" Alix Combelle
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"Rue Deperré" Alix Combelle
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"Ma Chanson Triste (Melancholie)" Alix Combelle
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"Ambiance (In The Mood)" Alix Combelle
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Willie Dixon
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"Divertissement dans une Fonderie" Alix Combelle
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"Fou (Mad)" Alix Combelle
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"Nerves and Fever" Alix Combelle
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"La-Da-Da-La-La" Alix Combelle
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Shortly after WWII, a new group formed in Fontainebleau. They called themselves the Cuvier Academic Club, but were quickly known as The Convicts of Cuvier. Led by Pierre Allain, René Ferlet, Guy Poullet and Jacques Poincenot, this group would raise standards in the forest with the first ascent of La Marie Rose, the first V3 (6A) in the world.

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The Fontainebleau Boulder post mentioned in the video: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ1sYqwDE6a/?img_index=1

 

Music:

"Tel Quel (En Plein Sur le Nez)" Alix Combelle
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Willie Dixon
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"Panassie Stomp" Alix Combelle
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"Midi à Jalopi (12 O'Clock in Jalopi)" Alix Combelle
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"Strictement pour les Persans (Strictly for the Persians)" Alix Combelle
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"That Blue-Eyed Baby From Memphis" Don Redman
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"Mush Mouth" Claude Hopkins
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"Joyeuse Fumée (Holy Smoke)" Alix Combelle
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After World War 1, bouldering began to shapeshift into something that very closely resembles the modern day game. At the forefront of that movement was Pierre Allain, a climber who was openly competitive and aimed to be the best. Also a talented and accomplished alpinist, Allain invented much of the gear we take for granted today, including the first shoes specifically for climbing -- and they were shaped by bouldering in Fontainebleau.

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By 1908, people had been practicing on boulders for over 25 years, but it lacked something essential to bouldering: community. In Fontainebleau, groups of climbers with a shared passion would unite around the sandstone blocs and forever shape the game of bouldering.

Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone