Coach Tom Randall: Training Strength for Endurance, How to Self-Assess Weaknesses, Max Hang Testing, Crack 101, and other Listener Questions
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In this special Listener Q&A episode, Coach Tom Randall explores:
Improving endurance by getting stronger
How to self assess weaknesses
Is there such thing as “active rest”?
Developing beginner crack skills
Periodization for gym climbers
Which crack size is the best to train
What standard tests should climbers do
How often should we test finger strength
Building a cheap crack trainer at home
Correlation between finger strength and climbing grade
Plus a bonus episode about free soloing buildings, and the mega building Alex Honnold will be soloing in January!
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne!
ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
00:42 Listener Questions Overview
02:20 Personal Climbing Journey
03:22 Reconnecting with Tom Randall
04:36 Tom Randall's Training Insights
15:21 Self-Assessing Climbing Weaknesses
25:37 Active Rest and Recovery Tips
30:31 Learning Crack Climbing
36:54 Periodization for Gym Climbers
39:05 Adapting to Training and Periodization
42:03 Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing
45:09 Crack Climbing Techniques and Training
47:46 Testing Metrics and Their Importance
53:52 Urban Crack Climbing and Unique Locations
55:30 Listener Q&A: Training and Climbing Insights
01:07:49 Encouraging Gyms to Set Crack Boulders
01:11:18 Conclusion and Bonus Content Announcement
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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
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