The Struggle Climbing Show

• Sonnie Trotter: Training for 5.15, Movement Mastery, and Reflecting on a Life of Adventures

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Sonnie Trotter explores: The 5.15a he’s training for, and what he’s specifically doing  The visualization trick he uses to get better at climbing (while at home) Climbers who can do V14 on a board but not 5.10a outside  Training power vs endurance  Dreamcatcher dreams Dealing with fitness setbacks due to sickness or injury Board climbing for peak power How to improve footwork using hard gym climbs Managing fear on bold climbs and free solos Getting the kids into climbing  His new book Uplifted  - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com SCARPA: Whether you’re a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:51 Journey in Rock Climbing 01:30 Balancing Family and Climbing 02:02 Training and Rest Strategies 02:57 Current Projects and Fitness Regimen 04:10 The Legendary Cobra Crack 05:12 Mental Aspects of Climbing 06:05 Conversation with Sonnie Trotter Begins 07:03 Pivotal Moments in Climbing 14:10 Sonnie's Climbing Heroes and Influences 19:53 Nutritional Adjustments and Insights 33:19 Balancing Professional Climbing and Family Life 38:49 Sonnie's Current and Future Projects 39:27 Navigating Risk and Fear in Climbing 42:19 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 43:49 Coaching and parenting in Climbing 47:06 The Journey to Writing Uplifted 51:43 Stories and Reflections from the Book 59:50 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:02:45 Sonnie's Future Goals 01:08:48 Listener Questions and Final Thoughts - Check out Sonnie's wonderful book, Uplifted, available on Patagonia, Amazon, etc. - Meet me at ICF in Lander! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

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• Road to V8: Why I'm Putting In a Kilter Board at Home

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   Jackie Hueftle and Kevin Cuckovich from Kilter join the pod to chat through our exciting partnership, including: The history and current landscape of system boards Where Kilter fits compared to the Moon Board and others Why adjustability and a dense variety of hold types matters Kevin's assessment of me as a boulderer Route climber pitfalls when we turn our sights to bouldering My current strengths and weaknesses Grades, and why they differ indoors, outdoors, and on boards A look ahead at my training journey The impact of endurance training on strength adaptations The surprising benefit of setting problems on the board How to get stronger fingers using larger holds - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Kilter: Award winning, adjustable, light-up board. It’s what I’m training on at home, and if you’re psyched to join me then use code STRUGGLE at checkout when you build your board, and you’ll score a free gift pack plus $500-$1000 off depending on your setup (Fullride, Mainline, and Auxiliary kits) let’s gooooo!   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right): 00:46 Why Choose the Kilter Board? 01:53 Training and Goals with the Kilter Board 02:59 Meet the Experts: Jackie and Kevin 05:56 Jackie's Journey in Climbing and Route Setting 09:18 Kevin's Climbing and Training Background 12:44 The Evolution and Design of Kilter Boards 16:51 Comparing Kilter with Other Climbing Boards 22:42 Training Strategies and Goals for V8 31:53 Balancing Bouldering and Sport Climbing 33:09 Balancing Strength and Endurance in Climbing 35:07 Learning from Past Climbing Goals 36:04 Maximizing Home Wall Training 38:34 The Importance of Movement and Setting in Climbing 44:17 Consistency and Smart Training 46:30 Avoiding Pitfalls on the Kilter Board 52:05 Mastery and Skill Development in Climbing 55:06 Excitement for the Journey Ahead 59:42 Conclusion and Final Thoughts   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

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• Alan Watts: Cheater, Pariah, Hero. Following Your Heart and Tuning Out the Haters

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores: How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S. The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It) The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted What are the "rules" of climbing anyway? Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber How to have more fun as a climber right now - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com  Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

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• Weekend Warrior: Breaking Into 5.12 with Simple Strength Training, Mindset Hacks, and Spreadsheet Nerdery

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, we connect with Weekend Warrior Annette Guo to explore: How she went from struggling on 5.11 to sending twelve 5.12s in a year Simple strength training that resulted in less injuries and her biggest sending spree ever How she sent her first V5, V6, and V7 in a matter of a couple months The impact of picking one thing to focus on The power of doing regular self-assessments and what it has taught her How to build confidence indoors that translates to outdoor projects Making quick gains by climbing with the right crew Her impressive system for planning and logging her training and climbing - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Check out Annette's fancy spreadsheets and make a copy for your own use if you're psyched (tabs we discussed were the Assessment and 2024 Sport Climbing Stats... but others might be useful as well): thestruggleclimbingshow.com/annette - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  Check out Annette's sends and struggles on Insta: @4amazingbetas Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

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• Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson Answers Top 10 Listener Questions on Finger Training, Strength Training, and Optimizing for Performance

  Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including: Which grip type is the best to train? How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results  Which finger training to do pre season vs in season  What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training?  Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade? The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs   Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training  Training while injured  How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day  How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game  Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing? How Tyler programs his training and climbing days  What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

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