XChateau Wine Podcast

• Flexibility, not Sobriety w/ Maggie & Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger, French Bloom

  Pairing their need for a complex substitute for wine, for both pregnancy and professional network, Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger and friend Constance Jablonski enlisted Maggie’s husband, Champagne and Cognac winemaker Rodolphe to found French Bloom. With four years of R&D prior to launch and constant refinement since, French Bloom aims to redefine the alcohol free premium sparkling wine space. Maggie & Rodolphe delve into the creation of French Bloom, exploring its core markets, target customers, and the factors that have drawn them in. Detailed Show Notes: French Bloom overview500k bottles (2024)Created a premium NA sparkling categoryFocused on sparkling to create complexity, can play with layersLVMH minority investor4 years of R&D to get the desired qualityDe-alc process loses 60% aroma (was 90% in 2021), removes the backbone of the wineBuilt NA wine like Cognac, needs an undrinkable base wineFocused on the South of France (warmer, higher alcohol and body) for stronger wines, more body, Languedoc (more organic 40% vs 3-4% in Champagne)Limoux is the best place for NA sparkling, 300m high, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, a temple of natural wineBase wine is a bit oxidative, very acidified (used to add lemon juice, now naturally from wine), oaky (new oak, foudre), no sulfites, more tanninCreate blends of different reserve winesExtra Brut (0% abv, 0 sugar) has a base of 30% reserve wine from 2 years, aged in new oak barrels to give more structureBetter to make adjustments before de-alc vs afterUse voile to protect wine from oxidation (like Jura)Flash pasteurization is used b/c no abv, sulfites to protect the wineNA marketWine, beer, spirits - $10B (2020), $20B (2025), believes $30B (2030)Premium NA sparkling - $0.5B (2025), could double next 5 yearsHoly grail is quality NA still wine, not there yetBest distributors are wine / Champagne distributors, Thailand/Belgium have NA-focused distributorsFrench Bloom customersBiggest markets are Champagne markets (France, US #2, UK, Japan, Australia, Belgium, Germany)Younger (25-45), skew female, appreciates both alc and NA sparkling wineSells 20% DTC globally2024 NielsenIQ study on NA purchase behavior - #1 driver - for conscious hosting (aligns w/ French Bloom’s ethos of not excluding anybody); #2 health & wellness; #3 drivingMarketing is digital first, leveraging Constance as a tastemaker and key opinion leaderMore partnerships - Coachella, French Open, just signed F1 (10-year partnership, 1st ever official NA sparkling wine, Moet Chandon on podium; F1 new fans are 75% female, 50% Gen Z from Netflix series)Most effective marketing has been the founding story and authentic storytelling (i.e., Maggie’s pregnancy, Constance’s need for moderation while networking)Marketing through top-tier restaurants, hotels, and shops (e.g., Michelin-starred; became the #1 wine sold at Erewhon in 1 week)Michelin-starred restaurants have 50% non-drinkers at lunch, 20% at dinnerNo sugar, no additives, organic messaging plays well in California, less on the East CoastUses the term “alcohol free” vs. “non-alcoholic”NA trends around NA wine & food pairing, including “moderate pairing” (wine & NA wine/drinks as part of pairing); mirrored cocktails (3 versions ofthe same cocktail - NA, low, full) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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• The Tip of the Spear, Global Wine Auctions w/ Adam Bilbey, Christie’s

  Selling the very rare, collectible wines of the world, Adam Bilbey, SVP, Global Head of Wine & Spirits for Christie’s, has a unique view into the state of the wine collector. Adam maps the thought processes and changes in attitude of buyers and sellers of rare wine globally, and he is seeing “green shoots” in the market by mid-2025. Detailed Show Notes: Adam’s background - started w/ Berry Bros out of high school (2000) at Heathrow Airport shop, moved to Hong Kong in 2010 w/ Berry Bros, Sotheby’s in 2015, Christie’s in 2021Christie’s is known for fine art, and wine is part of the luxury group (jewelry, handbags, cars), which is 20% of sales, and wine is 10-20% of luxury sales2025 wine auction marketChristie’s up 2x YOY Aug YTD, big single-owner sales (e.g., Bill Koch)Challenging market mid 2022-2024, newer vintage prices dropping more, more supply availableIn a downturn, buyers’ price expectations fall faster than sellers’“Green shoots” in 2025, pricing bottoming outBurgundy has taken share from Bordeaux last 5-6 years, Champagne came up and leveled off, Italy is strong in the US but not in Asia, Burgundy is strong in Asia, but leveled offInterest in more mature vintages, particularly Bordeaux, is still valued thereFocus on provenance, people won’t bid on poor provenance anymore2-tier pricing, people paying for a premium for a great collection, single-owner sales, they like the story of who owned the winesWith a more global market than ever, people buy from anywhereThe US has a broader selectionEveryone buys from the UKAsia tends to need more focus (e.g., Burgundy)Liv-ex shows -10% pricing last year, -20% last 2 years; auction prices move gradually, often lots don’t sellMore Millennials and Gen Z customers (45% 2025 from 30% 2022)Female customers have been consistent last 4-5 years, a slight dip in the US, and growing in AsiaYounger generations are drinking younger wines, they like the security of younger wines, have a fear of disappointment in older bottlesOnline auctions require ease of useChristie’s does 2x online auctions vs liveLive auctions for key moments, key collectionsVarious owner sales in online auctionsProvenance is improving with more communication (e.g., purchase & storage records), people working together (merchants, auction houses), and technology (digital microscopes, UV light, carbon dating)Provenance is critical, as people remember the bad bottles sold to them over the good onesBelieves China will make a comeback in the next 2-4 years Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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• Breaking down the cost of sparkling wine w/ Weston Eidson, Westborn

  Making wine is capital-intensive. Making traditional method sparkling wine is even more so. From less juice from the grapes to double fermentation to more expensive bottles and taxes, Weston Eidson of recently launched Westborn Wine describes the differences in sparkling production. Detailed Show Notes: Weston’s background: >10 years winemaking in Napa (Silver Ghost), family are wine collectors, interned w/ Jason Moore at Modus Operandi (2012), and acquired extra Chardonnay from Steve MatthiassonWestborn was founded in 2018, taking “Grand Cru” or single vineyard level fruit for sparkling wine (e.g., Heintz, Ritchie, Durell vineyards)Partnered w/ Russell Bevan (mentor) and Nathan Reeves (made sparkling in Margaret River)The goal is to start with high-quality wines and layer on complexity with traditional method agingTook 4-5 years to find a stride & hone the winemaking processInitially thought it would be 3 years aging vs 6 for 1st release (2019 1st release; 2018 1st vintage just disgorged mid 2025)SKUs: vintage, Blanc de Blanc, Rose, Non-vintageLuxury priced - $100+Solera method perpetual reserve program, late disgorged release, lead to a lot of capital in inventory2018: 500 cases; 2025 ~1,000 cases; target ~2,000 casesSparkling production costs vs. still wineFruit costs the same (growers love it: less shrivel, gets fruit off earlier - less pest/disease pressure; spreads out the work)Press cuts important, ~25% less gallons/ton vs still wine, as they don’t take tailleNeed to make the wine twice: initial fermentation (vin clair), secondary fermentation (bottled with yeast and sugar)Custom crush costs are slightly more expensive due to double fermentationBottles are more costly and need to be bought earlier (~$0.15-20 for a standard bottle; ~$1 for sparkling)Taxes higher: $2.40/gallon for sparkling wine, $0.07/gallon for still wine <16% abvStorage and financing costs are higherFinancing is combined with other brands, which may make it hard to start a sparkling brand as a stand-alone entityLook at the business plan over 20 20-year time horizon, projecting cash flow positive in 2027 (9 years from founding)Trends underpinning Westborn strategy: following Michael Cruse w/ grower CA sparkling wine, premiumization, sparkling doing relatively well, sparkling being used beyond celebrationsTake inspiration from Bereche, De Souza (lees stirring in bottle to amp up umami), and SelossePeople looking for experiences have a tasting at The Art Collective Napa Valley Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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• The Plight of the US Farmworker w/ Elaine Chukan Brown

  It’s a cycle that has been happening since the late 1800s. The need for agricultural labor in California is a cycle of bringing in labor and then deporting them when they become too visible. Elaine Chukan Brown, wine writer and author of recently published The Wines of California, describes the history, current situation with new regulations and deportation, and the tension put on vineyard workers’ wages in California and their impacts on the labor market and vineyard workers. Detailed Show Notes: The Wines of California covers 3 sections: How we got here - the history and what context allowed things to happenWhere we go - the growing regions and key producersWhat we’re facing - marketing challenges, climate changeInterest in farmworkers started with Salud, a medical program for vineyard workers and their familiesHas mobile and physical clinicsSuccessful because it provides care for workers and their familiesCA is the largest farm region in the USExports 40% of ag productionBecame nationally relevant in the 1900s, which led to the need for farm laborSources of farm labor (in chronological order)Indigenous people (until smallpox outbreak and reservations)China - exchanged labor for citizenship, after 10-15 years, expelled Chinese with the Chinese Exclusion ActJapanIndiaBlack sharecroppers from the South (small group)Mango (Philippines)Mexico (post WWII) - led to the current H2A programWhen labor populations grow and get too big, they are expelled, which has been in ~20-year cyclesH2A Program - temporary work visa programCannot be extended or transferred to another employerEmployers must provide housing & transportationBiases towards big business to deal w/ complianceFDR (1930s/40s) - Labor Protections Act created worker protections, but excluded agricultureUnited Farmworkers (1975) - 1st farmworker protection legislationAssociation of Farmers - farm wonders banded together to have more leverage against workersEver-growing CA labor regulations create large compliance requirements that end up favoring big businessCurrent system sets up farm workers’ wages as the only lever for farm owners to maintain profit margins and be economically viable (w/w/o gov’t subsidies)New CA farmworker overtime pay law - 8 hours/day, 40 hours/week before overtimeDerived from an office worker’s perspectiveDoes not match the seasonal work of agricultureEmployers have small margins, can’t afford overtime ratesWorkers make less money and need to get 2nd or 3rd jobsIf workers get injured at 2nd job, workers’ comp does not cover wages of the main jobEmployers need to find more workers to do the same amount of work, and lose the experience and skills of the current workforceMany crops (e.g., strawberries, peaches) need manual labor and can’t be mechanizedICE raids & deportations: not a new thing, but what’s new is people with documentation (visas, amnesty recipients, citizens) are being detained and deportedCreating fear, workers not showing up to work (some regions report a 70% drop in workers)Workers not going to farms on main roads (too visible)Families choose 1 member to go ot work, the other stays home to take care of the kidsHistorically, when the safety of workers is an issue, workers don’t respond to higher payUS tariffs increase prices to consumers, decreasing sales; it may take decades for consumers to substitute for domestic wines Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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• Giving California a Seat at the Global Table w/ Honore Comfort, Wine Institute

  With a large domestic market for wine, US producers often don’t focus a lot on exports. Honore Comfort, VP of International Marketing for Wine Institute, lays out the benefits and challenges of exporting wines globally. She covers the top markets for US wine globally, the role Wine Institute plays in helping US exports, and the potential impacts of the current trade war. Detailed Show Notes: Wine Institute overviewMembers are CA wineries (>1,000)Public policy organization focused on legislation (e.g., DTC shipping)Member dues are a sliding scale (based on prior year revenue & volume), baseline is a few hundred dollarsCA is the 4th largest wine region in the world after France, Italy, and SpainLargest market in the USThe US market is 75% domestic (80% from CA), 25% importsExport is 4% (by value), 95% is CATraditionally lower-priced wines, now a barbell (both low and high, but not mid-priced wines)Other countries have high taxes, duties, and tariffs on imported wines (int’l pricing often 2-3x US retail, 10x for India)Cost to produce is high in CA (heavily regulated - environmental & labor force protections; land costs high)Goal to showcase the diversity of CA wine globally, but only a sliver is available Key int’l markets - Canada (#1 until Feb 2025; ~30% of US exports - premiers took all wine off shelves as part of trade war); Europe #2 (Germany is hard w/ strong domestic, low priced market; Scandinavia big); UK #3 (punches above its weight as oldest wine market, lots of wine writers, critics, traders; one of the broadest selections of CA wine); China, Japan, Korea, MexicoWine Institute has active programs in >30 countries for CA winesBenefits of exporting wine: importers sell wine for you (no 3-tier system like the US), build brand visibility, position wines next to other great wines of the worldChallenges of exporting wine - takes investment, needs face-to-face storytellingSmall Napa producer (<5k cases) now exports 15% of sales working w/ Wine InstituteIWSR creates an index ranking all wine markets globally on attractiveness (2024 - US #1, Canada #2, Switzerland #3 - a small country, but strong wine culture and high value wines)EU subsidies are pervasive (e.g., bottling line, materials subsidies, marketing support (Italy $150M/year), buying excess bulk wine), but hard to get complete infoThe US has less support for alcohol (USDA has $8M/year for CA wine); wine is the highest value US export, but low in total valueTrade war impactsMarket uncertainty has many importers not wanting shipments on the waterCost of input materials (e.g., steel, oak barrels) upPrior administration not interested in addressing trade disparities, potential to open up other markets (e.g., India - 150% tariff on alcohol, #1 whiskey market, #5 beer market; Vietnam; Thailand)Attitudes towards the US impact business (e.g., Denmark dislikes threats on Greenland, reducing US purchases; China is not a factor; Vietnam and Korea are positive on US products)Hong Kong’s move to 0% taxes on wine led it to be a hub of CA wine in AsiaIn 2019, China's tariffs on US wine plummeted businessWine Institute promotes “0 for 0 tariffs” - keeping wine out of trade disputesMajor policy priorities: US dietary guidelines (on alcohol), getting wine back on the shelf in Canada, Ingredient & nutritional labeling, CA bottle bill on recycled glass, and environmental regulations“Share Wine” program - building understanding, community, and engaging with wine consumers, focusing on 25-45 year olds, centering on relationship w/ technology Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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